We have had a blissful couple of days road-trippin’ up the east cape of the North Island from Gisborne. This route hugs the coast right the way along, and is just staggeringly beautiful. The photos don’t do it justice (as they never do), but should give you some idea of the seascapes and skyscapes we have been lucky enough to take in (once they are posted – give me a couple of days to find an adequate internet connection!!)
We had already been to Waihau (Loisels) and Tolaga Bay with Lou and Nick*. So we drove Samson past them, resisted the urge to have another passionfruit cheesecake from the amazing café on the way out of Tolaga Bay town, and instead headed to Anaura Bay. Captain Cook stopped in at Anaura where he was apparently “warmly welcomed by Maoris, after a speedy retreat from Poverty Bay!” (Cook didn’t much like the folk at Poverty Bay, hence its name). Backdrop of wonderful native bushland. Stunning.
Then we drove on to Tokamaru Bay, rocky headlands and golden sands (8km of the stuff). We then wound past Te Puia Springs (which we think are now in fact closed?), Ruatoria and Tikitiki, all in the shadow of the huge and majestic Mount Hikurangi, the highest non-volcanic peak in the North Island. Apparently high on the mountain are carved nine Whaikaro (sculptures), but we didn’t get close enough to see them (our fitness not being what it was back in the heady days of the Camino).
In NZ Beanz Meanz Watties (Not As Good As Heinz)
Next proper stop was Te Araroa, where we kipped for the night at the Te Araroa Holiday Park ($10 each). Beautiful campsite 4 mins walk from the beach. We installed ourselves under a beautiful Willow tree and set about cooking up a feast on our gas stove (well… baked beans, poached eggs and slightly toasted wholemeal rolls). Did the whole Nuts in May thing wonderfully well. At one point we even sat about eating (carefully chewing 30 times) a mixed bag of nuts and seeds.
The second day of our east cape trip was even more rewarding. Breakfast was porridge and a cup of green tea. Then, after Will had done a few exercises (he has got VERY keen with this whole new year’s resolution malarkey) we drove back into Te Araroa central to check out the largest pohuntukawa tree in the world (no, we didn’t know what it was either – but we do now). It is more than 350 years old, has 22 trunks and 40 metre boughs. It is gigantic by any stretch of the imagination. Bought some manuka honey from the local manuka honey farm shop, ready for all our future gas cooked porridge moments.
View From East Cape Lighthouse
We then drove the 40 minutes or so (stopping lots to take in the view and take photos) along to the East Cape lighthouse. This part was just stunningly gorgeous. Sea so turquoise. Sky so sky blue. Sun so perfectly beaming. The lighthouse is the most easterly in the world, and the 750 step climb up to the top is definitely worth it for the breathtaking views. Apparently this is best done at sunrise, but we really didn’t fancy waking up at 4am to do this. We wanted to enjoy that porridge first.
After some kai (food) for lunch at the manuka farm shop, we drove on to Hicks Bay, Potaka, Cape Runaway (where the Maori warriors of the Tainui Canoe first landed), Waihau Bay and Raukokore, where a beautiful white church stands alone at the bay’s edge. We drove on to East Coast Macadamias at Whanarua Bay where we had our fill of macadamia and manuka ice-cream (sooo creamy) and took a walk along the beach. We then wandered into a magical Maori world of beauty as we took a walk along Whanarua Stream, down a completely untouched native forest track to a sublime waterfall. This really is the most beautiful stream I have ever seen in my life. You must ask permission to walk here as the approach to it is over private property and it is Waahitapu (sacred) to local Maori. We were enchanted like flower fairies as we skipped along over rocks, and through palms to the waterfall at the end.
We ended our day in Opotiki, where we have stayed overnight at the Opotiki Holiday Camp in town, again under a willow tree. Some red wine and pasta for dinner sent us into a wonderful carbohydrate-fuelled sleep.
Goodnight Candice-Marie!! Goodnight Keith!! Kiss Pwudence… xxx
* Loisels – beautiful unspoilt beach nestled in a secluded bay. Tolaga Bay – Cook cast his anchor here in 1769, has a very long jetty which Will and I jumped off (I lost my bikini momentarily), and were then kindly given a pile of mussels which some Maori guys had been picking off the pier ruts. We were going to eat them for dinner the next day, but silly Will kept them in a plastic bag in the fridge (which apparently kills them since they need to be able to breathe. Science eh?) Always store your mussels in a bowl.
Te Aroha Night Sky
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